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By: Jeffrey Ye
If you’ve been keeping up with brands such as Zara and H&M recently, you’ll know that their moves have been surprisingly uncharacteristic for their “fast fashion” label. What is fast fashion? Fast fashion is characterized by the strategy of the aforementioned fashion giants to rapidly incorporate (knock off may be more accurate) the latest trends from either the runway or popular culture into their stores. Their streamlined processes take as little as two weeks to go from design to delivery. So far, this approach has been extremely lucrative, with H&M and Zara operating a combined total of over 5,000 stores worldwide. To say nothing of their association with poor working conditions, why fix what isn’t broken?
On one hand, Zara may be testing the waters to see if the average consumer is receptive to higher end designer styles and superior quality at an increased price point. Zara has unveiled their first male studio collection that does just that. The outerwear and knits are clearly the highlight of this line, displaying prominent check prints and using wool blends in addition to alpaca and mohair fibers. Textured turtle necks, rolled trousers and several suiting options round out the collection. The difference with this collection and the fast fashion model is permanence, both with regards to its lower turnover of pieces and reduced likelihood of clothes falling apart after ten washes.
H&M on the other hand, looks to appeal to more mature consumers who have a defined style and can afford to spend more to attain it. The company has opened new stores in Toronto and Montreal under the name of COS. Having visited the Bloor street location, I was impressed by the spacious, clean layout of the store compared to H&M’s usual cluttered racks. The pieces themselves take a minimal approach to patterns, branding, zippers, and buckles. COS instead opts for clean, monochrome styling, reminiscent of the work of Jil Sander and Lemaire. While we have come to associate fast fashion with descriptors such as cheap, poor quality and trendy, COS is far from it. The company has stated, “COS prices start where H&M’s finish,” and included in that cost is superior construction and fabrics with a recognizable aesthetic.
Both companies seem to be challenging consumers to choose quality and investment into a thoughtful wardrobe in place of cheap trends. In the words of everybody’s favorite Belgian fashion designer, Raf Simons, “Fashion became pop … And I don’t know if one should be ashamed or not to admit that maybe it was nicer when it was more elitist.” While I don’t necessarily agree with putting up barriers to people exploring fashion, I agree that things are moving too quickly. There is such a focus on hopping onto the latest trend without any attempt to get to know what’s out there and discover one’s personal style. Fast fashion feeds into this. But the fact that companies such as Zara and H&M are moving towards less volatile and more refined offerings is undoubtedly positive for promoting more thought about what we wear.
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By: Emily Current
If you’ve been to the Pulse then you might have noticed one way in which it differs from other gyms: nobody wears a tank top when they work out. This is because The Pulse has a “no tank top” policy in place.
When I first started going to The Pulse I felt that the policy was a terrible one with no legitimate basis. I thought that if people were bothered by bare shoulders, they simply needed to get over their issue. However, upon investigation, I’ve changed my mind.
The rule was actually implemented because of a study found by a McMaster kinesiology professor, which has shown that there are people who are more comfortable going to the gym if everyone is dressed similarly. The Pulse banned tank tops in an attempt to create a more inviting environment for people who might otherwise be uninclined to go.
This ban helps to combat the lack of bodily diversity in the gym. The gym should be a welcoming place where people of all physiques and fitness levels feel comfortable, a place that emphasizes fitness for the sake of health and well-being, rather than for an aesthetic aspect. If having people dress uniformly can make other people feel more comfortable, then that makes this policy valuable. In fact, the aim is so worthwhile that I believe other gyms — especially those at other universities or colleges — should consider implementing similar dress codes. If you can take a small step towards making people feel welcomed, then why wouldn’t you?
Although I still feel a little selfish frustration that I cannot wear some of my favourite exercise shirts when working out, overall I am now in favour of the rule. I think that it is important for the university to be as inclusive as possible and everyone should be willing to make the necessary small amount of personal sacrifice to help.
While I agree with the policy, I believe The Pulse needs to be much clearer about the rationale behind it. Without knowing the reason for the rule, it would be easy to assume that it is based on misguided ideas, such as the belief that people, especially women, shouldn’t wear revealing clothing when working out lest they distract others. Rather than fostering a welcoming community, this could leave people feeling uncomfortable about or even ashamed of their own choice of clothing.
There is no information about the “no tank top” rule posted at The Pulse, nor is there anything on their website, and this is definitely a problem. Not only is the lack of clarity over why this dress code is imposed frustrating, but it is also troublesome that there are misinformed rumors about the rule going around. Rather than having irritatingly limited information available about their rule against exposed shoulders, The Pulse should be promoting the fact that they seek to create an inviting environment.
The Pulse is making an admirable effort towards making people feel welcome, but there needs to be more clarity about why the policy is in place. The rule itself is a step in the right direction and other gyms should definitely consider adopting it.
By: Jeffrey Ye
Streetwear started out as a simple idea, but grew increasingly broad and complex beyond the word’s dictionary definition. When we think of streetwear, the words “hype” and “exclusive” often come to mind. We think of brands like Supreme that take influences from skate, hip-hop and various other youth subcultures, all combined to make a potent mix of nostalgia and on-trend styles that makes hype beasts foam at the mouth. However, these notions of streetwear represent only one aspect of the word that seems so difficult to define these days.
In the past few years, an incredible number of youth are embracing streetwear without having any connection to the various subcultures that shaped it. Look at me: someone who didn’t have the faintest interest in hip-hop, skate culture or even fashion growing up, but now streetwear is one of my biggest interests. It’s a topic that I love sharing and learning more about. What is it about streetwear that draws millions of kids like me around the world to it – kids who have no connection whatsoever to streetwear culture?
For one, I think attitude plays a large role in the appeal of streetwear. Streetwear is expressive and personal, almost an escape from the path that I personally rarely ever stray from. Growing up as a first generation immigrant, there is a lot of pressure to work hard and find success quickly. There are times when I feel like I not only carry my own goals and expectations, but those of my parents as well, who left their previous lives for me. Similar themes of familial pressure and expectation are present in the backgrounds of many of my friends.
Some grew up in religious families, private education and generally the farthest things from what is traditionally considered streetwear culture. Attitude is taking a step away from the pressure and knowing what it means to be an individual. I’m not saying streetwear is a way of giving the finger to one’s upbringing, neither is it disdainfully stating, “You can’t tell me what to do.” What I feel streetwear represents is a medium to experiment and express yourself however you want to.
The second reason may come as a surprise, but I think that the endless possibilities of streetwear are key to its popularity. You might be thinking, “Wait, there’s more to streetwear than bogo tees and Jordan’s?” Yes, because streetwear isn’t just exclusive drops and the hype-beast uniform. Perhaps even deeper than its roots in skate/surf culture, streetwear embodies a haphazard melting pot of the myriad fashions on the streets. These other aesthetics range from high fashion looks inspired by streetwear (“Raf Simons, Rick Owens usually what I’m dressed in,” A$AP Rocky), to Japanese streetwear (Visvim, Undercover), to what seems like an entire cult dedicated to biting off Kanye’s latest fits. The point is that there isn’t really a particular look or wardrobe that you need in order to get into streetwear. You can really experiment with whatever you already have, take inspiration from magazines, blogs, or people, and build your wardrobe from there. This is a powerful idea and part of the reason many prefer streetwear over the uniformity and rigidity of classical menswear—don’t forget to leave the bottom button unbuttoned!
It seems now prudent to address the issue of cultural appropriation and whether or not taking pieces of basketball history (or any other subculture) such as Chuck Taylor’s, and turning it into a fashion statement dilutes the significance of the object. I can relate this to seeing others adopting aspects of my own culture, but as long as it’s not done in a mocking manner I personally cannot see any harm. Hopefully that doesn’t stop anyone from experimenting and developing their personal style.
Sometimes I look back and see how different I look and feel since I got into streetwear, even if I’m the same kid trying to decide what looks good and what looks bad. As Rachel Zoe said, “Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak.”
By: Daniella Porano
As a university student, money is always tight. My decimated bank account is used to cover the basics of classes, food, rent, and my personal favourite, $200 hundred-dollar textbooks that professors never end up using. To my great sadness, this leaves virtually no room in my budget for purchasing new clothes and creating a dream wardrobe. Fortunately, basics that most university students have can be reworked into easy outfits that feel fresh and new.
The first step to having a wardrobe that is functional and versatile is investing in quality basic pieces. Step away from the Forever 21 denim rack and think about pieces that need to last. If you’re like me, buying cheap “fast-fashion” clothing at discount retailers in the mall feels wasteful, especially when they tend to fall apart after the first wash.
On the same note, while I love reading fashion magazines and browsing designer boutiques, the cheapest of pieces are still completely unaffordable to most university students. The compromising middle ground for us underfunded fashionistas is searching for quality pieces to build your outfits around. To do this, look for proper and in-line stitching, nice material, and a great personal fit, and don’t be afraid to spend some time in big box stores like Winners or even secondhand stores like Value Village, where quality (and designer) pieces can turn up for fractions of the original retail prices.
Most importantly, do not ignore your footwear and bag choices. The easiest way to jazz up the most basic of outfits is to subscribe to the power of a statement bag and perfect shoes. Although, I’d argue it’s important to invest in timeless pieces like neutral coloured boots (combat, riding, heeled booties, or other lasting styles) and similarly with bags, there is room to play with trends and vibrant colours and patterns. To make sure this works well and to ensure your style remains affordable, select pieces that mesh well with your basic pieces. Consider your current wardrobe whenever you go shopping for colourful or trendy pieces that accent your outfit and bring your personal style to life.
For example, I live in all shades of blue (particularly navy), black, and varying hues of gray, so when I shop for statement pieces I gravitate towards complimentary maroons, reds, and pinks. Keeping an inventory of the colours and styles of your basics makes shopping easier, more affordable, and keeps clothing from the dreaded ‘do-not wear’ pile at the back of your closet.
Every pair of quality dark-wash skinny jeans I own are quite possibly the best purchases I’ve ever made. The key to this style is simple: find a few pairs that fit you extremely well and build outfits around them. I’ve styled my own black and dark-wash blue jeans with everything from dressy peplum tops and colourful heels to a plain white t-shirt and combat boots with perfect ease. To change it up, try colourful denim alternatives like oxblood, military green, or dark gray.
Collared button-up shirts are one of my favourite pieces to wear. More fun than simple t-shirts, and not as dressy or demanding as silky blouses, they’re the perfect pieces to build an outfit around. Chambray/denim, solid colours, or even plaid, have the effect of looking prim and proper when buttoned up with a statement necklace, or looking cool and easy paired with boyfriend jeans and smoking slippers. Experiment layering under chunky knits or fitted cropped sweaters for fall for a cozy and refreshing outfit. Alternate between pairing with flared skirts and formfitting denim. Tuck them in or leave them loose. Button them up or leave them open with a great tee underneath. The options are limitless and perfect for chilly weather.
As Canadians, we can’t survive without a sturdy fall coat. Invest in a coat that goes with the majority of your wardrobe and that makes you feel instantly put together when you put it on. For me, it’s my navy military-esque trench, but it can be anything depending on your personal style. A perfectly cut leather jacket or a worn distressed denim jacket, a camel coloured trench or a cozy blanket coat, can be all that is required for a perfect fall outfit.
